NIC WILLIAMS
NIC WILLIAMS
2011
I was hoping the house sized waves would have relented and I could have got in one last surf on the Atlantic coast at Lacanau, it wasn’t to be. I’ve seen it big but never for so long, well I suppose it was inevitable with the east coast of the US taking a battering, those storms generated a good swell.
I left Lacanau and headed south to meet up with a friend Gwyn close to Biscarosse on a lake south of Arcachon. The idea was to have a little cycle and then go canoeing. The cycle part went quite well. We made it to a local town with Gwyn’s two boys in their bike trailer and had ice creams, all very nice. On the way back we followed Gwyn’s map to the canoe centre and start of the bike trail along the lake. The canoe centre turned out to be an oil depot which explained the funny platforms in the lake, there was even a nodding donkey. No worries, we’ll follow the cycle track to the next village, the canoeing must be there. The cycle track was really hard going for both of us due to it being soft sand, I struggled with my clip in pedals and Gwyn with the slick tyres and trailer he was trying to drag. After a few km we eventually gave up on the canoeing and also the track but only after we’d realised that it wasn’t a cycle track on his map but a buried oil pipeline. Kind of funny considering I worked for an Oilfield services company and Gwyn works on oil tankers!
We had a lovely picnic in the shade of Vern’s awning before spending a hour or so swimming in the clear waters of the lake. By this time one of Gwyn’s kids had something in his eye and we decided it was time to call it a day, time for me to head off to the Dordogne.
3 hours of driving and I arrived in the hamlet of Puytraud near Thiviers. Dad and Chris have a house there that is idylic, a real country cottage that postcards are made for. I’d come a day early as on the Thursday I drove to Limogues to collect Helena who’d come over for the weekend. Time for the waistline assault to commence, Chris loves to cook and with visitors ever meal is a 3 course affair.
Friday was spent chilling and visiting Thiviers for a lunchtime apero. Saturday though was all about the market in Perigeaux which is just fantastic. The stalls are teaming with fresh veg, local produce and of course the traditional Perigourdine fair of Foie Gras, duck breasts and confit de canard. Following the market we ate Chez Bruno, Dad’s traditional lunchtime venue on market day.
Sunday arrived and after a small breakfast we headed off to Vaunac and a restaurant Dad and Chris had found. Time for a 5 course sunday lunch of soup, Foie Gras, Magret de Canard, salad and cheese all washed down with wine. You’ve got to love it when a 1/2 litre pitcher of wine is €3. The meal was spectacular and my 4th meal of duck in 2 weeks, you’ve got to love that. We had a fab time with Dad and Chris but Monday came and it was time to head to the Med via the airport for Helena.
I’ve tried to avoid toll roads where possible but there was one I wanted to pay for, well enjoy using, the Millau Bridge. Having taken hours driving through Millau before the bridge was there on two occasions, I was really excited to see this and it didn’t disappoint. It turns what was a 2 hour drive into something that takes just 15 minutes, assuming you don’t stop to climb to the viewing area as I did.
From Millau I headed the last few miles onto see my second family near Montpellier in the village of Valergues. I’d met Sylvie on the French exchange with school, I’d been back for weeks at a time on several occasions and had always had the most amazing welcome, no matter who was with me. La Mams, as everyone calls her, is the mum of the family, as her nickname suggests. I’d not seen them since Sylvie’s wedding 14 years ago. Other than their Renault garage now being turned into several apartments nothing had changed. I got the most warm welcome and in true family Lopez style was whisked off to see all the family at a outdoor party area they have in the village. Sylvie was there with Cyril and their kids, Cathy with Brice and their two, Joel with Clarice and their boy as well as other family friends, all hosted by La Mams and Le Paps. It was a great night that reminded me of my youth there, partying, chasing the bulls through the streets, picking grapes and generally having some brilliant times.
I got to go caching on the second day. I spent the day wandering La Grande Motte, Carnon and Palavas, all haunts of my youth. In the evening we all met again for dinner, this time at Sylvie and Cyril’s house. It’s beautiful. Their kids Cyndie and Loic are very lucky to be growing up in such a great place in an area of France that I just love.
I’d been made most welcome and it felt that I’d not been away for so long. I was made to promise I would return next year, certainly not a hardship, they’re amazing hosts and so much fun to be with. We better start planning a return road trip.
Time to head on, Italy here I come.
Week 29 - Lacanau, Dad’s place in France and a visit to my second family in Montpellier
23/09/2011
The waves didn’t relent so I left without surfing again, off for a long weekend with Helena, my Dad and Chris at their cottage in the Dordogne. Then onto see my long lost second family.